Zanzibar

I thought I was leaving the difficulty of the third world behind by choosing to spend Christmas on the beach in Zanzibar.

Little did I know that Zanzibar would also be the place I revisit breath-work for the first time since Thailand 2013, and would unleash whatever emotional damage I must have been repressing for over a decade.

The unexpected unveiling of a new path in my journey was not a pursuit of my own making. However, as fate would have it, a serendipitous encounter led a newfound friend to refer me toward her healing guy in Zanzibar. Apparently the power of breath can take you on a hallucinating individual journey to your deeper issues. Firmly attuned to the subtle whispers of the universe, I heeded the recommendation and embarked on the enchanting voyage. Swiftly, I discerned its profound resonance within me. Though it was fleeting, during the abbreviated session, I transcended the confines of my physical form, drifting inwardly. Amidst my sixtieth breath, a revelation materialized before me: I was engulfed in a pool of liquid, stuck in the sticky goo of whatever it was holding me back. I cried out for help, but nobody was around to hear me. I was utterly and completely alone.

Then hours later my voice became raspy and while I didn’t feel under the weather, I noticed a difference in my sound. My voice was gone.

That was two months ago and now I’m just going through the motions. Unable to sing, unable to talk for long periods with people, and unable to trust that my body is okay. That I’m okay.

Looking back Tanzania was irrevocably the most difficult part of my trip. I don’t know what exactly cracked in me in those last weeks, however the trip to Capetown, South Africa didn’t help my healing progress.

I was tired, worn down, solitary, and definitely feeling more lost than before. I was content with going along with the flow, however something was bubbling deep down.

Realistically, I really should not have pushed myself as hard as I did in the end. I even went to a vineyard where I drank for the third and final time in Africa. The wild sulfates of South Africa bruised my chords, and whatever was blocked from the breath work, got inflamed and just lingered around for weeks after.

I don’t quite know what to make of these symptoms, and I’m certainly past the point of wanting to google it…but I guess this post is a long-winded way of saying, I give in, and I still have faith it will work out.

My voice will return in its own time, even if it takes a while to heal. I understand that this may be a quieter season for me. Although it’s difficult knowing that I won’t experience music in the same way as before, I believe there’s a purpose behind all this uncertainty. Dear Africa, I trust that you had a reason for taking my voice, but I kindly ask for its return now.

Safari in the Serengeti

To say there is a lot of feminine energy in my family is an understatement. My father came from a big military family that traveled across Europe, the southwest, and eventually Texas due to an unfortunate childhood accident in Germany. San Antonio had one of the best burn units. While my two twin brothers are the only Roby’s to carry the name, the rest of our large Texas family is all women. Each blessed with a variety of talents. Looking back I’ve been incredibly blessed with the ability to see them every holiday, every year and watch us all grow in love. I know now that this love that binds us together is a directly reflection of our mysterious grandmother.

My grandmother is the reason that triggered this trip back in April, so it makes sense to begin the story with Anne Beckett Yeargain, aka, Honey. I don’t need to dive into too much family history other than this woman was pure gold and the first person to come to mind when asked who I want to be like when I get older. Honey had so many stories, both good and bad, and possessed this incredible maternal instinct not only with her children, but her childrens’ children, her childrens’ children children, and even her childrens’ children children children. Her memory never failed her, and even at the ripe age of 96, she still carried the soul of a timeless spirit.

I am grateful to be here today because of her, and to be traveling through my dream continent that only child form Jennifer knew I would experience. When I was a young girl I would lay in the soft Texas grass, spending hours looking up at the clouds. I would picture myself in faraway places with this sense of determination and familiarity. I would dream about Africa and all the animals I would see one day like a vivid reoccurring dream; it was a bright blue day and the grass was fresh with spring. Animals surrounded me and I was home.

These early wanderlust thoughts kept me going through all the gray days of doubt. Perhaps it was the National Geographic channel, or the release of The Lion King that fueled these ideas. My younger sister, Emily, and I spent countless hours pretending we were lions on our next door neighbors ridiculously sized rock, roaring and eating grass as if we were lions living in Pride Rock. Looking back, the only thing more ridiculous than this random boulder in their front yard, were the random little wild girls running around on all fours. It was a time of simplicity and innocence that I would give anything to go back to, just once.

While I knew I would end up in Africa someday, deep down I doubted this faint notion. Perhaps it was always meant to stay high on a pedestal. Ironically the only other place I placed on a separate pedestal was Spain. While I had many opportunities to visit, I wanted to speak the language fluently before I set foot in this country. It wasn’t until early this year after the death of my grandmother that I had the clear understanding I would be connecting these places, one leading me toward the next. All my previous solo trips have been stepping stones instructing how I would navigate this journey.

It wasn’t until I hit my previous destination, Rwanda, that I got a little rattled and unsure of my purpose. Everything up until this point has lined up so perfectly that it just felt right. Then I hit a bump. I felt fear, loneliness, and shortly after, sickness. I gave myself the patience to heal for a few days in solitude, but for the first time this entire trip, I felt weary of my next move. I watched the stormy clouds roll past Mount Meru with sobering sadness. I am near the continents two largest mountains, and yet I feel no desire to climb them at this point in my life. It is the beginning of the rainy season and the views from the summit would not be nearly as rewarding this time of year.

Where should I go, what should I do? Then it hit me, as if my inner child was tugging at my own heartstrings. You’re in AFRICA JENNIFER. The wild animals are calling, go to them.

I inquired around the village and booked the first safari that felt right. While there are so many options, depending on your budget, timeline and destination, you will know the right package when you see it. Just like that, the puzzle pieces starting lining in place again, and everything flowed in harmony.

The next morning of the tour I was the first pickup. For the first time in days I was eager and energized. I had my small bag packed with my sleeping liner, safari clothes, bug spray, and toiletries. I looked around the empty safari vehicle thinking, the only thing missing is my sister. She should be here with me. We should be reliving our childhood together.

The guide picked up two ladies along the way. The first was a lovely older German woman, and the second was a younger British gal. The three of us would share this massive seven person off road vehicle for the next four days. I was ecstatic!

The beginning of the trip started slow and easy. We squealed at the first sighting of a mongoose family at the entrance of Tarigeirgie Park. Then proceeded spotting a of the Impala, giraffes, elephants, hippos and even the first sighting of a lion pack. The highlight of this park was a special moment when we waited by the water and were the only people who watched a herd of elephants enter the water for a social bath.

Elephants have always reminded me of my mom for some reason. I first encountered wild elephants in Thailand, where I immediately thought this must be her spirit animal. They say an elephant forgives but never forgets. They also say in order to put an elephant into captivity, one must first break their spirit. I learned the sad truth behind the logging industry, as well as the commercial tourism for elephant rides. I’ll never forget the video they showed us of the beautifully strong creature bound by all fours in a tiny bamboo pen. They whipped this elephant every day, for weeks, until it finally caved and bent a knee to their master. This was the moment when the elephant no longer felt it had something to live for, and gave up. Yet seeing them at this sanctuary park years after being rescued from captivity, they found a way to accept the past and live the remainder of their life being happy. Despite all the tragedy this animal endured, they were still able to love people. The wounds and gashes across their body would tell you otherwise. Deep beneath their playful trunk is sorrow-filled past that only their black eyes may show. My wild mother is strong in many ways similar to the elephant. It was during this special group watering hole experience that I suddenly wished my mom was here to see this. To feel the love and laughter alongside me.

Later that night we ate dinner on the outskirts of Arusha. We placed our bags into the luxurious glamping tents before racing back out for a hot meal. The small group of us were relaxing over the first course of carrot ginger soup when from a distance we could hear a faint growl. We all immediately stopped talking in unison to listen to the creature. The deep growl grew into a louder grunt and we could tell that it was coming from nearby, just beyond the bush. Fear prickled our skins as we quickly retreated inside the caged kitchen area, all silently acknowledging it was definitely a lion.

After dinner a small tribe came out to play drums and dance. When it came time for audience participation, everyone was too full to move. Everyone except for the older German woman. Her thick, silver-blonde hair bounced to the beat of the drum as she danced with the locals. Her vibrant spirit was youthful beyond words. A nearby stranger smiled toward me and asked “is that your mom?”

In this moment I realized my mom was here all along. She would have been dancing here just as this light-hearted woman. I would later looked at my phone during the pocket of Wi-Fi and see my mom text for the first time in weeks to see if she could call. Life is funny like that and our wavelengths tend to be connected like the Aspen tree root system; when one person feels, the other does too.

The next day was a whirlwind of an experience – we had to cross the crater inside Ngorongoro National park to enter into the Serengeti. I’m Swahili Serengeti translates to “endless land” and it’s true. The park is significantly bigger than the other two and stretches for miles into Kenya, where herds will migrate through two times a year. We spent the day chasing hyenas, warthogs, more lions and even found the rare leopard.

She sat high up in the top flat acacia tree, napping on her sunlit perch. This beautiful feline was the hardest to spot in the park. There are about 1500 of them in the 40,000+ square foot park, yet they manage to hide themselves so well. Blending into their environment, this solitary cat is completely at ease with her surroundings. There was a moment when we exchanged glances and I felt my sister alongside me. Gone were the days when we climbed high up into the oak trees, yet here I was decades later wondering if a piece of her was up there with that regal cat. The sun kissed her face as she stretched and stalked her way across the branches. She knew we were all watching and it didn’t phase this Queen of the Serengeti.

Later that night we would enjoy dinner before heading toward our small camping tents for an early morning wake up. You could not stand up in these, but the water at this site was actually heated compared to the previous cold showers. By the washrooms an elephant would stampede across our site, waking everyone up. The British gal and I were sharing a tent and laughed about life. I felt this kindred bond with her, it was so easy to open up to her. We giggled gossip about the different types of people in the world, and how no matter where you go, you can find them everywhere. In that moment I realized my sister was here all along. This is exactly what Emily and I would have been doing had she been here on this trip. A few hours later some water buffalo would loom around our tent, eating grass and nuzzling our canvas walls, just like we would have done many years ago in our neighbors lawn. The next morning the guide would tell us someone on this trip has some big animal energy because it’s not normal for this many nightly camp visitors. I’m not saying it was the power of us three women together, but some secret part of me wanted to believe I had the power to whisper them closer.

The third day was potentially the highlight of the entire trip. We were on the usual hunt for all the big cats when our driver with eagle eyes caught a faint beige dot in the distance. The cheetah. As we “illegally” went off the path to get closer my mind raced about the last time I even saw a cheetah. I don’t recall seeing them in the zoo and was eager to see how petite they were in real life. Over the past years I formed a respect for this animal due to not one, but two readings about spirit animals. Both times the cheetah card was drawn for me: “an animal of solar force that uses passion to fuel forward momentum. When in balance, there is boundless energy” was amongst other definitions that stood out for me. I could easily trace the connection.

As we approached the area we zeroed in on a beautiful small cheetahs slinking across the grassy plain. From behind her popped up another cheetah, only slightly smaller! A mother and her female cub. I was delighted to share their space as we turned off the engine to sit with them. After they became more comfortable with our presence, the young cub completely took me by surprise. I was sitting in the passenger seat of the vehicle, with a personal roof toward the front. I stood on the seat, making eye contact with the cheetah. She circled the car toward me and I could read her next move. Just like how my cat at home would dip prior to jumping onto a surface, this cheetah was about to pounce on top the car to take a closer look. My adrenaline spiked as she curiously climbed toward me. Reason told me I should be scared, but my body didn’t want to move. I asked the guide below if I should come back into the vehicle, but he reassured me by whispering “no, no”. Not “don’t worry the cat won’t attack you” or “maybe you should come back in” but simply, “no, no”.

Our eyes locked and I felt so much love for this animal sitting in front of me. She was young, unweathered, and beyond playful. She started nibbling at the plastic roof handles in front of me. The entire group was going wild for how bold she was to come hang. She explored everything from the windshield wipers, the exhaust pipe, the handles. She wanted to know everything about us. I placed my hand upon the glass between us as she sprawled across the engine. Her paw lifted toward my hand in this pure moment of understanding. I see you. You see me. We are one and the same. It was like looking through the glass at my inner child and connecting with her on so many levels.

She lounged around for almost thirty minutes as we all patiently spent the day together. Life was precious and so were these moments binding us. I looked around the field and it suddenly hit me…this is not how I pictured the Serengeti. Every picture I’ve seen prior to coming here was dusty dry desert. Yet looking around we were surround in fresh spring. The lush green endless fields bloomed with life as butterflies dancing across flowers. With the cheetah still by my side, together we looked around for predators. The horizon had a small herd of elephants and when I looked up, the blue sky was filled with pillow clouds. dejavu swept over me as I looked up at the endless sky. This is exactly what I imagined so long ago while I was a young girl staring up into the vastness. It was as if my future self was always sending a message back to my child self, letting her know time would heal everything and this land would bring me to realize I was never alone. How could I fear abandonment when I’ve always have this same sky to remind me of the place of endless land and endless love?

I would go to bed that night completely satisfied, not only with all the cats of the day, but with a renewed hope for the future. What if it all works out? I don’t think I ever left myself consider this as an option. If I ever forget I can easily be reminded through all the feminine powers in my life; the legacy of my grandmother, the wonderfully maternal aunts that came after her, my fierce mother and graceful sister, my new niece, and not to mention the countless cousins on my dads side, along with the Caribbean cousins on my moms. We are all a few years apart, and scattered across the United States, like some magical star dust across the continent. These woman are my rock. They are my history and a stable reminder that I am never alone in this world.

And that’s just my family. Don’t even get me started on my friends. I am beyond lucky to know these women and will forever lift them up, as they lift me. While all the big cats may be in Africa, I’m certain all the powerful felines are sprinkled everywhere in between, an ancient line of goddesses that keeps this world a little less dull.

Racing around Rwanda

There comes a time in every long backpacking trip that you hit your first big low. Sometimes followed by a high…and then another low. While it is not my nature to focus on the negative, I think this particular segment of my trip has burned a memory deep in my mind. One in which I will carry, both the good and the bad.

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The Prince of Egypt

I purchased the last minute flight from Marrakech to Cairo knowing it was my best port of entry to Arica…yet also knowing that the US government has deemed it a class 3/4 zone of terrorism and that all travel there is highly advised to cancel. Whatever that means.

I researched the visa entry ahead of time, and apparently got denied for having the wrong information in my application. It is quite possible I got got, however for $25 it seemed like a learning experience. One that would set the fate for if I actually enter the country, or just pull a Tom Hanks and live in the terminal for a casual 36 hours. I was prepared for both outcomes with a flight out of Cairo. Later found out that spending the night in the terminal never would have worked because they have a TSA pre check before the TSA check. It’s ridiculously high security that would only let me in 3-4 hours before my flight.

So thank goodness my visa did go through, on the spot, in person. I was contemplating the outcome when I met this engineer who sat next to me on the flight – was scribbling all sorts of calculations in his notebook like a mad man. We got to talking and he reassured me he is Egyptian and I should easily get a visa on the spot for $25. No problem.

Sure enough he was right. Mohammed was so kind as to wait for me on the other security check side. It was midnight and while I luckily had a hostel pre arranged in the hip area of Zamalek, I unfortunately failed to prearrange a pick up. While I really don’t like to plan this far ahead when I am always on the go with limited internet, I am learning it is helpful in these foreign countries, really ANY country, including America, to prohibit the airport taxis take advantage of you.

Typically in these situations I am reassured that I know I can pull out cash from the airport atm, and ideally get Wi-Fi to google the average price for a ride. In this case, the airport Wi-Fi was difficult to access requiring a local number and I was prepared to pull out Egyptian pounds to have a cab driver take it all.

While I did not show it, I think Mohammed could sense the concern in my eyes each time I said, well it will all work out. I was certainly not his burden and all this was a problem I got myself into. He did not owe me anything but to my surprise, he wanted to help. Throughout this trip, I am constantly reminded how people just want to help. And it’s not always just in exchange for money.

Mohammed saw I couldn’t connect to Wi-Fi, offered his number to use, and then when the Uber app was down he said he was getting my ride as a welcome to Egypt gift. His sister was waiting outside when we approached. The air was thick, the night sky was lit up with all sorts of fluorescent lights, and the pure chaos of the arrivals area was more than I expected. I pushed any worry at bay and smiled, soaking in the hustle of everyone around. I was in Cairo!

They were both so kind as to wait with me for the Uber Mohammed called. Also, there was no point in which I doubted his man because he was pure throughout our conversation on the plane. Finally he speaks to his sister in Arabic and they offer me a ride toward the direction of their house and my hostel, where he would call me another Uber that would be easier to get. All of this plotting could scare my younger self into saying “no thanks, I’m good” however I once had a travel friend years ago tell me “I like to constantly place my faith in humanity” and that expression has never left my mind. I certainly didn’t want to jump into a taxi after midnight and wanted to believe the best in these two people standing in front of me.

We get into her 1993 Toyota sedan, and I am humbled by the modest life of this mother with two kids. It was incredibly late and I could easily see how she would deny the ride. Yet, they both were insistent on helping me get safely to my hostel. We pull over fifteen minutes into driving on this crazy four lane road. The road didn’t even have white lines and people were just merging quickly into random lines. The hazards are flashing and Mohammed says “the ride is coming”. It’s almost comical at this point that we can just switch vehicles ON THE HIGHWAY. Apparently Ubers will pick up anywhere here. I was still not panicked and completely trusted them.

Transferring into the Uber we say our goodbyes, and exchange numbers should they ever be in Colorado. I then arrive at the hostel at 1:45am and feel incredibly exhausted as I check in. Kareem, the owner, is calming and helpful as he shows me my private room. When it comes time to pay he tells me they don’t have a credit card machine. This was common in Morocco too, and I assume they want to avoid all the fees. Plus, cash is king.

I explain that I’ll need to get to an ATM and Kareem says, no problem you can pay in the morning. I am relieved and say, “thank you. I’m so hungry but also so tired. I think I’ll go to bed”. I am then surprised when he replies, “you’re hungry? I will show you a shawarma place” I kindly, yet shortly reply, “no, sorry I don’t have cash” and he simply says “no problem, it’s my welcome to Egypt gift”.

I’m starting to wonder what the heck this welcome to Egypt gift thing all about. The past two people have said this to me and I’m embarrassed that I was expecting something far more different, purely based on negative stories others told me. I take him up on the shawarma and go to bed with a content belly and heart. I am so used to locals treating me as a walking bank account. It’s a fair exchange in my opinion, I contribute to extorting your community, which thus becomes reliant upon tourism, and in return you learn to take me for as much as you can.

Maybe there is something more to this place and these people, and that is such a beautiful change of pace.

Shatter, flight, fight, repeat.

My heart pounds with anticipation as I glance at the clock, 4am, and it seems as if time itself is sprinting towards the moment of departure. A surge of indescribable emotions courses through my veins, rending any attempt at verbal expression futile. It is as if a tempest of feelings is tearing me apart, a whirlwind of excitement, apprehension, and exhilaration colliding within my very being.

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Halted in Gibralted

It has been a long standing dream of mine to sail across the Straight of Gibraltar into Africa. While I cannot say the ferry is as exciting as a pirate boat, I can say it was equally rewarding to see the distant land of Morocco come into fruitition.

During this brief day trip I learned many things; that England owns this small section of the worlds largest trading port, that there are so many cave systems inside this massive rock, and that the Straight of Gibraltar was actually a land crossing at one point in time!

The morning started early with a 6am bus from Malaga to La Lina, which is a 2.5 hour bus to the border line. I have been navigating everywhere with offline maps that don’t always show up, and once again had to ask my way around once I landed. Luckily a lovely woman named Ellen overheard me asking this unhelpful couple, and we decided to pair up to find the border together. It didn’t take us long and we were both impressed with how simple and quick the crossing was. Not to mention interesting that you have to walk through an airplane runway.

Anyways we spent a good hour talking as we enter the city. I discover we have the same plans to get atop this large Rock and knew it was fate that we should meet. Ellen was also going through some recent life changes (happened in August as well!) and she has decided to give herself a year as well to sort things out. I swear it was like staring at an alternate version of myself in a future dimension. She was exactly 20years older than me and so many similarities. She is a well-known author from Oregon with so many great stories. Listening to her life was like peering into a familiar snow globe that reassured me I would still be searching for the same things should I have go down the same path.

The journey up the rock was very exciting. I’m so grateful Ellen talked me into renting e-bikes rather than hiking. I had a long day ahead of catching a bus to another city to another bus to a ferry, so time was not on my side. We had an intimate group of six and rode through the city, past all the taxis and people on foot. We covered around ten miles and got to see so many beautiful checkpoints, including many monkeys.

The clouds were slowly taking over the sky however you could still see the tip of Africa from across the sea, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. There was so much history behind this big rock, including an epic cave system dating all the way back to the Neanderthals. There was another cave specifically used in the Siege of Spain while England battling it out for this cute lil territory. I was not expecting this much of a history lesson on such a packed travel day.

We had lunch in the town square, where I got to devour my last fresh piece of seafood, and possibly last animal as I go more vegan in Africa. I eventually made it to the bus station where I would talk my way in Spanish onto a bus for free as a kind man named Diego let me board using his pass. My intention was to take a taxi but as we spoke more he kindly offered to pay for my trip since they did not accept credit cards for this bus. Sort of funny how I always imagined all the buses and ferries must come through this port to get to Morocco. Now I realize it must be a passive aggressive post war thing Spain must do to operate their boats out of their ports.

Once I got off the 45 minute bus in Algeciras, I had to walk over to the estacion martime to purchase a ferry ticket. Unfortunately this port didn’t go to the city port in Morocco and after a little prior research I knew I didn’t want to land at night in the further away port. So I bought to ticket out of the next town and used their free shuttle system to get to Tarifa, which was an hour and a half away.

The sun was setting as I entered the last Spanish town I would be in this trip, and I accepted that I would be entering the Moroccan town of Tangier in the dark. The ferry ride was only 1.5 hours and the time passed fairly quickly as I quickly stuff my face with more carbs. I would finally be in Africa soon, and it felt like the real trip would start.